We saw the North Atlantic Ocean

Posted bycinnicrewPosted inScotland

Day 9

July 22, 2025

Stats: 19 miles, AIS: 2:05, Elev. 1092 ft, Speed: 8.8 mph

Port Charlotte to Portnahaven to Port Charlotte loop.

This loop was our route in a counter clockwise direction.

The hostel has a “wee” breakfast (continental) so we had that for breakfast. Then Jim and I had to move out of our nice single room to join the bunkhouses…men’s and women’s. At this point there is only one other woman with me in a room for 4.

We were out of the hostel at 10am to take a nice ride up and over the peninsula to see the North Atlantic Ocean then south to Portnahaven. The weather today was calling for cloudy… maybe some sun and mildly windy. Temps always seem to be low 60’s. Really perfect actually.

Started with steady easy climb with lots of open countryside with livestock farms of sheep and cows. Then we had a glimpse of the ocean coming down the other side.

The narrow single road with hardly a car along it.

We had a big steep descent to a very old stone church.… or what was left of it. This church was located with a view of a beautiful small bay into the ocean.

The church
Inside the church looking at the altar
Looking from the altar at the church and beyond to the Atlantic Ocean
The beach-bay below the church

Leaving the church we had a steep long incline back up above the ocean

Climbing back up
Here comes Sandy
Here comes Jim.
Another worthy photo for a
bike travel brochure!
Still heading up…
or maybe this on the cover?
Making another climb. The views were sweeping of livestock grazing the hillsides
High enough for heather on the hillside
That’s me😊
A little Heather going for a ride
A little video of Sandy and I climbing up
Trying to make a living on tourism in the Inner Hebrides
Seashells imbedded into the house exterior

As we began the descent into Portnahaven we came across an honor system Cake Box. Unfortunately only on Saturdays

The Cake box

We spent some time poking around this area and stopping at the Pub for a little lunch.

Looking down into Portnahaven. Steep drop from there to the heart of the village
Portnahaven
Tomato-carrot soup and Cullen Skink chowder (smoked haddock) were specials today. Delicious.
Great village to stop and checkout.
House at the end of the little town. There are two tiny islands just offshore
Looking across at the lighthouse
Old 8th or 9th Century remnant of a church on the same island as the lighthouse
Gap between the islands is the
Atlantic Ocean
Another view of Portnahaven. Lovely whitewashed homes in the village
A phone to nowhere
Lobster traps ?
Temperate enough climate
for a few palm trees. Did not expect that… seems like harsh exposure

After spending some time poking about we headed back to Port Charlotte. Not very far… just seven miles.

View along the shoreline back
to Port Charlotte.
Two languages… English and Gaelic.
This is all over Scotland
View into Port Charlotte
Nice calm day for kayakers
Lots of black rocks along the shoreline with bright golden lichen

It was a pretty quick easy day. Some of us took a little walk in the afternoon. Sandy cooked us a nice pasta with marinara chickpeas and beans at the hostel. Tomorrow we are planning an early stop at a distillery along the way and to explore to the northwest of the island. We’re planning to ride a bit further than the last two days. It will be our last day to take our time and enjoy the scenery, the quiet and the joy of riding so many different areas in Scotland.

Thursday we have to hard charge 18 early morning miles to Fort Ellen to catch the ferry back at 9:30am. No chance to stop for photos and such. So I’m looking forward to tomorrow. Hope the guys get a better night sleep in the bunkhouse!

2 thoughts on “We saw the North Atlantic Ocean”

  1. Had Sandy ever been to this Island before? I’m guessing he had not. It is so quiet and beautiful and that all white village was so lovely. Did you get to talk to any locals at lunch?

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    1. No it’s his first time as well. Have not talked to any locals. It’s very rural for sure. All the villages are white it seems and also the farm houses. They show up against the green landscape

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