Day 54
8/13/26 Thursday
Health update. My cold has finally relented.. it was a tough 3 days but I finally feel so much better. Not needing sleep, more energy, an appetite, not sneezing and Kleenex attachment!
Good morning Mount Edziza!!
This morning bodes well for a gorgeous day driving into the coastal/glacial fjord mountains to the US Alaska town of Hyder and the BC town of Stewart.
Tamarack trees are starting to change now. They turn golden in the fall and lose their needles.
Stewart/Hyder spur road. 40 mile spur road off the Cassiar Highway. Stewart BC and Hyder AK are at the head of the Portland Canal. The border is literally right between the two towns. It’s a narrow saltwater fjord. The canal forms the US/Canada border. Both towns originated supporting gold and silver mining. Now they are supported by forestry, mining and tourism.
Stewart BC population 527
Hyder AK population 52
The only way to access Hyder is by vehicle through Canada or private boat or airplane. The people who live in Hyder rely on Stewart for everything… even schools! It is the lowest Alaskan city on the mainland. There isn’t much in Hyder besides a bar, a fudge store and Pacific Seafoods store. People go to Hyder to see the fish viewing platform to watch bears feed on salmon and to drive up to Salmon Glacier. We won’t arrive until the afternoon.. we’ve got about 4.5 hours of driving minimum to get there.
Driving the Cassiar. The drive today is scenic with small glassy lakes along the highway. The rainbow sheen of pollen was attractive on top of one lake but there were no pullouts to take a photo.
Ningunsaw River is that gorgeous icy glacial blue. Eventually this river flows into the Stikine.
The road side is a fireweed explosion. It sure has been a treat all summer to watch this flower just getting started and now too see it in full glory! It grows first in disturbed soil so it basically lines the highways and roads through western Canada and Alaska.
Spur Highway to Stewart . We have about 45 miles to Stewart off the Cassiar. Along this section we see Bear Glacier across from the road. “They” say that not long ago it came all the way to the highway. Not sure what year…but within their lifetime. “They recall when…”
Stewart in the afternoon. Stewart is a cute little town. Looks like 2 small grocery stores, a hotel/motel, a few inns/lodges, 2 restaurants, 1 or 2? bars (Casey’s Place) an artisan gift shop, visitors center, 2 campgrounds, car wash and a really nice city center park. I’m sure there’s much more but on a quick drive that all got my attention. There are quite a few visitors today but not crazy. It’s a nice warm, sunny day so everyone’s in a good mood.
Austere outside, comfortable inside
Old fire truck in the shed
City Camping. We are staying at the Rainey Creek Campground…city campground. It has tent camping, dry camping and electric sites. Also showers. Not too busy when we arrived in the afternoon but could pick up with the weekend coming and nice weather. Also an easy walk to and around the Main Street area.
This afternoon we showered and I am relaxing wearing shorts and a tshirt for first time in ???? days. Can’t remember the last time honestly. I’m welcoming the warm weather.
Border crossing. The day is not done. After dinner we took the short drive across the border to Hyder (3km). There is a sign that says you are in the USA but no border patrol. The US doesn’t care who enters this water locked entry to the United States. There is no where to go by land except steep mountains into glaciers. If you go by boat you will enter at a different US border point. However, after you visit Hyder and return you do have to go through the usual Canadian border patrol. All the usual questions. Pretty easy really. They just care about drugs, cannabis, alcohol and $$$. The guards are pretty chill really. Like to ask if you saw bears? Glacier?
It’s very confusing
We did visit the bear viewing platform but for simplicity I’m going to combine it with tomorrow’s blog…hopefully more bears😊
Driving Wildlife: 1 small black bear running across the highway
4 cyclists (3 on Stewart rd)…2-3 in camp.
cinnicrew 